The case for globalising amala

CULTURE is simply defined as the way we do things. It represents the identity of an organisation, institution and a nation as well as their peculiar idiosyncrasies – their egos and pride and to some extent, the overall perception of others about them. And food is a part of our culture. Food culture, by my own definition, is simply how and what we eat; our food culture defines us. Thus, the latest ingenuity of the Oyo State Ministry of Information, Culture and Tourism to celebrate our local delicacy, amala, is worth commending based on the above analysis of the importance of food to national health.

Every nation globally has their unique cultural food identity which, through celebration and marketing, have translated from local food culture to assuming a status of international food, attracting tourists and indirectly bringing them foreign exchange and promoting local businesses. Today, Chinese, Asians, Italians, Spanish and other nationals have conquered the world through the initial window of opportunity presented by their foods. In the UK, the most celebrated English food is the fish and chips and it is served as lunch every Friday, everywhere in the United Kingdom. Amala fiesta, as it is tagged, is the first of its kind in the South-West of Nigeria and it will no doubt be a cultural concept that will be adopted by other geopolitical zones of Nigeria in no time.

Nigeria is richer than any other African Country in food culture and if this is properly explored via tourism, it could be a source of foreign exchange outside the perpetually dwindling oil revenue of our nation. Amala was the staple meal in the old Oyo Province since the early 16th century; it was exported by the sons of the Alaafin who migrated from Old Oyo to acquire or colonise other territories that has today become the South-West of Nigeria .  And there are classes of amala as described on our menu; the steamed pudding of sun dried powder of African wild yam (Discoreaesculentus, elubo isu), the steamed pudding of sun dried powder of African cassava (Manihotesculenta, elubo lafun) and the steamed pudding of sun- dried powder of organic plantain (Musa Spp, elubo ogede or kelu)

They are all served with different stews and vegetable accompaniments and, of course, with protein in form of fish and meats making a balanced diet. The most popular of this variety of amala is the Elubo- isu and for cultural identity reason, it is served in a pool of cocktail of vegetable soup best described in our restaurants as abula. A cocktail of soup made from Puree of organic black eye beans –Virgnauguigilata cooked in aromatic peppers with palm oil and spiced with African locust bean (Treculiaafricana). Gbegiri in a mix of ewedu (Cochorousolitorous) and stewed meat from the digestive system of assorted meats is a mouth watering dish for many.

Today, abula as a dish has found itself by destiny re- positioned in the global culinary map, there is hardly any popular African restaurant in Europe, America, Asian and the Far East that does not have it on their enu, serving amala has lately become the beginning of popularity with different nomenclatures as abula, oyo lawa, adedibu, kini so, molete connection, etc.

In the United Kingdom event Catering market, a lot of small scale caterers have recently emerged as specialists in provision of mainly abula service at different events simultaneously going on in different locations every weekend. As a meal, it defines the class statement of event catering, and if not listed on the menu, it means the catering for such event is not complete. Indeed, it has become the trademark of established and upcoming restaurants in London like Lolak, Tomi’s Kitchen, Island Buka, Tiwa n Tiwa, Big John, Sweet mother, Squirrels, the Den and many more in the UK.

Consequently, the celebration of amala by the Oyo State government is coming at the right time considering the current global challenge posed by health issues emanating from obesity. Amala is today the number one African food recommended by the WHO and dieticians for weight loss because of its relatively low caloric content when compared to other heavy duty carbohydrates, the Abula in its own capacity is a balanced diet full of protein from gbegiri and essential vitamins and Iron from ewedu which aids digestion and enhances body metabolism. It is worth mentioning that it is the only carbohydrate recommended for diabetics.

Abula is a proverbial prophet that is neither acknowledged nor recognised in its country. The EUFIC Regulations 2014(SI2014/1855) which came to force on December 13th 2014 makes it mandatory for food manufacturers, restaurateurs, food retailers and other purveyors of food consumed by the public to provide information about the presence of any of the 14 allergenic substances or ingredients in their product at the point of sale, it is worth mentioning that amala and abula is the only meal in the United Kingdom without any allergen which it satisfies international food safety standard in all ramifications

Also, its ability to generate income for artisans and restaurateurs is massive and inexhaustible, I am convinced that in the next 10 years, like Chinese have exported their fried rice and noodles to the world, the indians their Tikka Masala and the Italians their Pizza and Pasta, Nigeria food culture will gain global recognition through Amala and our traditional Jollof Rice. I commend the ingenuity of Governor Abiola Ajimobi and his culture and tourism team for making the difference and setting the pace for other states and regions in Nigeria by celebrating their food culture.  Indeed, a jise bi Oyo laari, Oyo kii see bi baba enikankan.

• Ekolo is Executive Chef at Cuisine a la Leke in the United Kingdom