Inside RCCG’s birthplace at Ebute Metta

It is a quiet neighbourhood. Even the usual entry point – Kano Street – appears hidden, tucked away behind the chaos that is Oyingbo market. It is an untidy cluster: buildings are sited close to each other. What is left of the road is shared by vehicles, motorcycles, traders and pedestrians. Commercial motorcycles (okada) appear to be the only means of transportation around the area. As people approach, the riders wave wildly and call out to them.

Asked how much it would cost to get to the Redeemed Christian Church of God (RCCG), one of them asked, “Headquarters?” Apparently there were other branches of the church along the same route.

“N100,” he answered.

Most of the buildings in the locality are old and worn. Several old people were seen sitting idly on their verandas. Many of the homes had small shops in front of them where younger women sold food and other simple items.

The street where the Headquarters stands was once called Cemetery Road; it has now been changed to Redemption Way. It is not exactly clear the reason for the renaming, but many believe it was quite necessary.

“The dead and the living have nothing in common,” explained the okada rider who also described himself as “a friend of the Redeemed Church”.

The throne

The National Headquarters, a fairly large structure, is called the Throne of Grace. Several members and pastors of the church who spoke with Saturday Tribune said it is where the General Overseer worships.

Two police vans were parked close to the gate, last Wednesday; the officers were armed. A uniformed guard at the entrance told Saturday Tribune that both Pastor Adeboye and the newly appointed National General Overseer, Pastor Joseph Obayemi, were not available.

“If you wish to start worshipping here, come on Sunday, because that’s when newcomers are received,” he added for good measure. “Wednesday meetings are for choir ministration.”

A large banner at the gate, with Adeboye’s portrait boldly printed on it, announced an upcoming event, to be presided over by Adeboye. Beside the wire fence, two women sold books and DVDs – items that had Adeboye’s pictures printed all over them. It seemed unnecessary – the furore that greeted the “change of baton” at the church recently. To a visitor, there was little to suggest there had been even a slight adjustment in the leadership.

The Church’s founder, Pa Akindayomi, had established the church in this community in the early fifties. After his death, and in accordance with his will, Pastor Enoch Adeboye, became the General Overseer in 1981. From the Throne of Grace at Ebute Metta, the church has extended its reach to many parts of the country and the world. Indeed, official church records say there are at least 2000 parishes of the church in Nigeria alone. Other countries listed are: Ivory Coast, Ghana, Zambia, Malawi, Zaire, Tanzania, Kenya, Uganda, the Gambia, Cameroun, South Africa, England, France and Germany, the United States, Jamaica and Haiti.

The pillar

Mr Kazeem Odekanle sat in his shop at Oyingbo, reading a newspaper. It wasn’t exactly clear what he sold. Born in Ebute Metta, and now in his forties, he has lived close to RCCG headquarters almost all his life. He said even though he is Muslim, he feels he has been a part of the church’s story.

“I remember when they were building the church,” he said. “I remember that the building collapsed two times when it was still being constructed; that was in the early 90s. The incident occurred twice, I can remember, because that particular place, where the building is sited used to be water-logged. They had to dig the foundation very well, before they could begin the construction. That was why it took them a long time to complete the work. It took them more than five years to build the church.”

Odekanle said he is a graduate; he decided to become a trader because “there are no jobs in this country.” Like many in the community and beyond, he said, he is certain it would have been difficult for the church to handle the confusion and despair that would have occurred if Pastor Adeboye had “completely retired” from RCCG.

“For those of us here, we know that it is political,” he said. “People who attend the church would not want to tell you that, but we know that it is politics. That was why when they later said even though he is not in charge of the national branch, that he is the worldwide head, we understood that everything was politics. And that was even why people calmed down, because he is the reason why most people joined the church. If he really steps down, or retires, or leaves the church, the number of people attending the church would reduce.

“He (Adeboye) is a great man; he is the pillar of the church. In those days, in the 90s, Baba Adeboye said that every street in the whole Nigeria must have an RCCG church, and that has happened. That is why even in Ebute Metta here, they have up to 10 or more Redeemed churches, apart from the Headquarters.”

Two of RCCG’s senior pastors contacted on the phone declined to comment. One of them said all information about the church can be found on the official website. There was, however, no mention on the website of any accident during the construction at the headquarters.

Beacon of hope

For Kayode Moore, a student who worships at the Headquarters, the church represents hope for all of Ebute Metta residents.

“I have been a member of here at the Throne of Grace for some time. I live at Ebute Metta, and I know how the church has been a blessing to many of us. RCCG is very important to the people of Ebute Metta. The church has helped this community in many ways, including power supply and even helping people to get jobs, especially members.”

He said residents look to the church for guidance, and are proud that what began in their community has touched the lives of millions of people across the world.

A few meters away from the church gate, several okada riders waited to convey passengers away from the church and mostly to the bus stop at Oyingbo. The world around the church, in all its bleakness, appeared completely different, as people carried on, seemingly oblivious of the treasure that stood behind them.