It was a chilly Wednesday morning. The rain had just finished drenching the streets of Warri, leaving the air crisp and cold. As the city stirred awake, the familiar voice of Mama Felicia (not her real name) echoed through Ginuwa and Okandeji Streets along Warri-Sapele Road. “Hot Ukodo!” she called, her voice cutting through the damp morning air. With the cold lingering, a steaming plate of pepper soup and yam seemed like the perfect remedy.
Popularly known as Mama Ukodo, she has spent decades preparing and selling this cherished delicacy that is made up of pepper, yam, plantain and meat, preferably goat meat; a business that has not only sustained her family but also defined her identity. In an exclusive chat with our correspondent, she shared her inspiring journey.
“I am called Mama Ukodo because that’s what I have been selling for as long as I can remember. I am from Warri, born and raised here. I don’t know my exact birth year, but I should be in my late 60s. I started selling yam, plantain, and pepper soup when I began having children. It was my way of supporting my husband in raising our family. And I can proudly say this business trained all five of my children from primary school to university,” she said, her face lighting up with pride.
Today, all her children are married and successful. Many would expect her to retire and enjoy the fruits of her labour, relying on her children for support. But for Mama Ukodo, the thought of staying idle is unimaginable.
“I have always been a hustling woman. I can’t sit at home doing nothing. Who will serve Ukodo to my customers? Some have been buying from me for over 10 years. They say they can’t eat pepper soup unless it’s mine,” she chuckled.
Her daily routine is as disciplined as her passion for the trade. She rises before dawn to prepare her signature dish, ensuring it’s ready by morning, the best time to enjoy Ukodo. By midday, she’s done selling and heads home to rest.
But while her love for the business remains strong, the economic reality of Nigeria has made it increasingly difficult to keep going.
“The business was very lucrative when things were still affordable. When I say ‘affordable,’ I mean during Goodluck Jonathan’s time. The truth is, Buhari messed up the country before Tinubu came in, and now, there’s no real difference. Things are so expensive that many people have abandoned their small businesses because they no longer have the capital to keep going,” she lamented.
With inflation soaring, basic ingredients have become a luxury.
“A single tuber of yam now costs N5,000. How do I cut it to make a profit while still keeping my prices fair? Pepper soup spices that used to be less than ₦500 per basket now sell for ₦5,000. And don’t even get me started on the cost of meat and plantain—it will only make me angry,” she sighed.
Despite the hardships, Mama Ukodo soldiers on, relying on faith and resilience.
“It’s only by the grace of God that some of us are still in business. We plead with the government to do something about the suffering caused by these incessant price hikes, but nothing ever changes. It’s as if Government House is on another planet entirely. They don’t seem to see or hear the cries of the people,” she said, shaking her head.
Yet, even in the face of rising costs and economic uncertainty, one thing remains constant—Mama Ukodo’s unwavering commitment to her craft. And as long as the streets of Warri awaken to chilly mornings, her voice will continue to echo, calling out to those who crave a comforting bowl of hot Ukodo.
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