Life around Fela’s Afrika Shrine

THE immediate environment of the New Afrika Shrine, an open air entertainment centre, in Agidingbi, Ikeja – which was lit up on Tuesday night with the remarkable visit of the French president, Emmanuel Macron – is a typical plot of the metropolitan Lagos.

Beside the New Afrika Shrine are blocks of offices   and some blocks away are schools, worship centres, fitness centre, hotels, mechanic workshop, among others. However, two streets away, there are residential estates.

Life in these estates during the day is no different from houses within the metropolis which are always quiet when most residents are gone to work, students to school and others within their compounds activating mind-your-business mood behind security fences and gates.

At night, however, another life unfolds, which is quite the opposite of what obtains during daytime. Between 7.00 p.m. and 9.00 p.m., most residents are back from their respective work places. The gates to the estates close to motorists around that time. From 10.00 p.m. to the early hours of the following day, different activities and transactions are witnessed by those who dare to be outside within that period.

According to a resident who gave his name simply as Michael, he was unaware of the nightlife around the estate until a night when he came out of his house around 1.00 a.m. to buy fuel to power his generator. “There was unexpected power outage and it was during the dry season when there was intense heat,” he said.

With the intent of buying fuel from a petrol station close to the estate gate, he was surprised to see people walking in pairs along the street at that ungodly hour. The malam’s shop by the road was still open, some customers chatting with him in what looked like they were having a regular night.

After buying the fuel, he returned to his compound curious to know why there were still activities at that hour around the estate. The following morning, enquiries from the security in his compound revealed that indeed what he saw was just the norm in the estate. The security man told Michael that the malam’s shop was open 24/7 in order to attend to customers coming and going to the Fela Shrine.

 

Security house as brothel

Another revelation was that there are extra-business transactions between guards and men who need a place to “lay” prostitutes. He explained that in most cases, a man would pay a particular guard some money to spend a few hours in the security house while the security man stands guard. This, he said, has become the trend as the guards, paid to secure the house, make extra money and compromise the security of the unsuspecting house owner in the process.

 

While there are hotels around the place where such activity can be carried out, the guards’ option seems cheaper as they are paid between N2,000 and N5,000, depending on negotiation and the span of time the couple intend to spend in the security guard’s hut. During busy days, especially Thursdays when there are live bands at the shrine and Felabration, there might be as much as three sets of transactions.

While this might be the height of activities within the estate imposed by Fela’s lovers who might be using the shrine as an excuse to be within the environment at such ungodly hour, some touts also use the opportunity to carry out illegal activities under the guise of being Fela’s lovers.

Another resident of the estate who pleaded for anonymity said his car was raided once when he parked outside the estate gate because he came home late as a result of a gridlock on the Island. With the thought that the place was secure, he walked into the estate without taking anything from his car. The next morning, on getting to work, he noticed that his laptop bag was missing. The bag had been kept in the car boot, which showed no sign of vandalism.

“This means the people that took my laptop are ‘experts’. They opened my boot, made away with my system, as well as the spare shoes in the boot, closed it back like nothing happened,” he said. Since then, the resident explained, anytime he, by any chance, could not bring his car into the estate, he made sure that he took with him, any valuables.

However, such security concerns were not shared by the residents as some claimed that they contribute money for security and so far, there had not been any robbery incident.

According to a member of the residents association of one of the estates, the only complaints are from outside the estate which is beyond the power of the estate association. “So far, property and lives of the residents are safe and secure,” he said.

A concerned mother, however, noted that the children are kept from the social vices associated with the Fela Shrine. One Mrs Bisi explained to Saturday Tribune that during the day, the estate is calm for school children but what is witnessed around the shrine brings apprehension when one thinks about the children and how it might influence them negatively.

“Most of us, parents, are unaware of what is happening around here. The Shrine is just a few miles away from the estate and by the major road. There is sanity within the estate by the day except for motorists who take a detour within the estate to avoid traffic on the main road. At night, the story might be different as some people claim. But responsible parents will not leave their children outside and, unattended at night,” she said.

Temitope Alonge, a 300 level university student who had spent 13 years in one of the estates, told Saturday Tribune that growing up within the environment was no different from any estates elsewhere in Lagos. He explained that over the years, there had been a few changes but the changes did not affect the lives of the residents.

“As a youngster, I was unaware of the Fela Shrine until a couple of years back when the awareness of the Fela brand started spreading among residents. As I grow older, I think I become more aware of my environment and less easily influenced by it. Our estate is one of the safest in Lagos. I have heard stories from elsewhere of how they were robbed, victimised and so on but I have never experienced such,” he said.

A landlord who spoke with Saturday Tribune by phone also noted that the estate had been secure for a long time.

“Although I don’t live there anymore, I am aware of happenings around the place. It is not the way it was several years back but that is what is called development. Change is the only permanent thing. All we need is to adapt to the change. Several years back, the environment was rather quiet and a bit deserted but now due to development, which may or may not involve Fela Shrine, the estate is lively and well populated,” he said.

 

New Afrika Shrine

More than 20 years after the death of afrobeat legend, Fela Anikulapo Kuti, his legacy endures. This may be largely due to the hard work of Femi and Omoyeni Kuti, son and daughter of the fiery musician who took on the military government in the 70s.

Femi and ‘Yeni, for the past 20 years, have been keeping the memories of their father alive with their administration of the Afrika Shrine. Currently located at Agidigbi, Ikeja, the shrine has been a beehive of activities and a haven of entertainment during the week and weekends. Perhaps, this is as a result of the absence of segregation as all guests, the low and the high, gather for the love of the Fela brand.

Fela’s original Afrika Shrine was destroyed in 1977 when his family compound called Kalakuta Republic was burnt by the military. Kalakuta Republic, at 14 Agege Motor Road, Idi-Oro, Mushin, was the name the musician and political activist, Fela Kuti, gave to the compound that housed his family, band members and recording studio.

After the military action, the iconic saxophonist moved to Pepple Street, Ikeja, but this was short-lived as a court case led to the eviction of the shrine from Pepple Street as the land was on lease, contrary to Fela’s impression that he had bought the land. Efforts to buy the land were frustrated with a court case. By the time Fela died in 1997, the land was still in contention and entreaties to settle with the Mene Binitie family at that time were rejected.

A visit to the shrine at night gives a clearer picture of the Fela brand which cuts across tribe, age and social class. The audience or Fela lovers, mostly men, had, by 6.00 p.m., started converging when Saturday Tribune paid a visit to the shrine. By 9.00 p.m., the sound of music could be heard from the shrine with many people inside, some lurking around in groups outside, some smoking and others engaged in small talks. While some well dressed and well behaved, others were given away as ruffians by their outfits and gangsterish behaviours. About six youths were busy with the ‘traffic business,’ helping motorists to find parking spaces with a promise of securing the vehicles for a fee. This was said to be a routine on days there were performances by Femi and others.

On Thursday morning, around 9.30 a.m., however, the New Afrika Shrine was very inviting. Workers were cleaning up the place, while some youths, males and females between the ages of 22 and 35, converged on the auditorium and fixed their gazes in one direction. Saturday Tribune’s correspondent could not verify what their object of focus was. Outside the building were other sets of youths taking alcoholic drinks and smoking wrapped substances.

Having earlier learnt that the Head of Management, Yeni Kuti, was away to Australia to visit her daughter who was recently delivered of a baby, Saturday Tribune requested to see the supervisor or someone who could speak for the company. Although under the guise of being a potential customer who wanted to stage a play at the shrine, the reporter was attended to by Wale ‘The Manager,’ who said his superior, Mr Sunday Ene, is the General Manager and in a good position to speak if he were around.

 

Shrine is good business

Asked for the requirements to stage a show at the shrine, he said what determined the rate was if the event would have corporate sponsors. He said regardless of the arrangement with the management, a prospective customer must ‘see’ the sound engineer, decorators and, most importantly, the security.

When Saturday Tribune’s correspondent expressed fear of insecurity, considering the reputation of the shrine within the community, he gave the assurance that the management had a private security arm that guarantees the safety of all customers and guests.

He said further that the shrine did not pose any security threat to the community because the men seen outside the shrine were businessmen selling one item or the other and taxi drivers.

Wale stated that the shrine does not provide accommodation for its customers. He directed Saturday Tribune’s correspondent to private hotels around the building that charge an average of N5,000 per night.

He expressed confidence that doing business with the shrine is cost-effective with maximum security guaranteed.

The head of security, who identified himself as Ata-Ijosi said his “boys” were duty-bound to secure all the belongings of customers within and outside the building.

 

Is Fela relocating to Oko-Oba?

However, there is growing excitement about a particular building which “suddenly” sprung up in Oko-Oba in the Agege axis of the city.

The building is located near the famous Lagos town of NURTW base and its attendant spectacle, Agege, as well as Abule-Egba. The building, which looks everything like one of the countless events centres springing up all over the state, would pass for a new business centre but for the graffiti and work of art on it. And that is what is fuelling the current excitement among residents of the area. The paintings on the structure scream Fela.

 

A new shrine?

A contrast to other edifices along the Agege-Abule-Egba Road, you can never miss the building because of its attractive ambiance which would compel a second look and curiosity. For a first-time passer-by coming from the Abule-Egba axis, Oko-Oba Road might just be a residential area mostly with different estates on the left and right sides with gates bursting out on the major Old-Abeokuta Road. Drawing close to the Oko-Oba abbatoir, the scenery changes a bit to a commercial avenue with a market, followed by a newly completed shopping complex on the left and blocks of shops, mostly for animal feeds, on the right side.

By this time, the brightly-coloured two-storey building would have come into a full view and stealing all attention, making one to ignore other buildings. It is painted in orange and a bit of peach colour, like a bust of freshness, in comparison to the buildings before it. With a bit of glass work and marble tiles reflecting the sun, a motorist or passer-by would have no choice but to give the building yet another glance.

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Why Fela?

What would definitely draw the attention of an artistic mind is the aesthetics of the stone paintings, from the ground to the top floor, both on the right and left sides of the building. For an art lover, the paintings will always compel a closer look to have a better understanding of the work of art. There and then, the picture of a band of musicians and dancers comes into focus. A faint picture of saxophonists dressed aptly in tuxedo, another of a dancer in blue ball gown and of particular interest, the picture of a man clad in a black singlet and a powdered skull gives a name to the object of the artwork – the legendary saxophonist, Fela Anikulapo. This adds to the wonder and the curiosity around the property.

The building looks every bit ready to be used as it seems to be 99.9 per cent complete but for the corrugated iron sheets that were used to obstruct a good view of the place, which were plastered on the picket fence all around. The place is, however, devoid of any human movements for the most part of the day save for a young man who perched on the fence under the trees planted in front of the building when Saturday Tribune called. He would not talk.

The left side of the building was busy. With blocks of shops facing the main road and the road leading to an estate, it was business all the way. Behind the shopping mall, along Suco Road, are a bar and an auto mechanic shop. With chairs and tables outside the bar, around 6.00 p.m., the place was about commencing business, as a few customers were seen chatting over bottles of beer. Just behind the immaculate orange building, on the right side along the road, is the Rapid Respond Squad (RRS), Oko-Oba Operational Base, formerly MOPOL barracks and just opposite is the Vehicle Inspection Service (VIS) office.

The immediate environment is already affected by the presence of the building, which has sparked curiosity, excitement, uncertainty and caution among frequent users of the route, residents of estates around it, as well as individuals that are one way or the other connected to the axis.

While most believe that the place is an events centre, others argue that it is a clubhouse. But there are those who believe that the structure is another Fela Shrine, given the artwork of Fela, a group of saxophonists and dancers in the frames of the Kalakuta Queens.

 

Expectation, trepidation

The anticipation among people living or working in the Agege axis regarding the possibility of having a connection to the late musician and activist via his shrine is infectious. Most commercial drivers plying the road were quick to share their excitement.

David Akpan, a commercial motorist, was also pleased with the prospects of bringing a shrine to the Agege area. “We felt the building has something to do with our great Fela. What else or who else could depict such if it has nothing to do with Fela? In fact, last week, my guys and I discussed it. If you look at Fela’s style very well, you will notice he is a brand for the masses. He will not take the shrine to a location that will not be accessible to the common man. Aside from the traffic that the building may attract, this is good business for us. The more people that visit the place, the more money we make,” he said.

For the head of one of the Tricycle Riders Association, simply identified as Apostle, although there had been no clear information about what the building was all about, the idea that it might be another Fela Shrine was really exciting to most of his people as this means more business, especially for those who love doing night shift, which is common among commercial tricycle riders as a second source of income. For this class of riders, after a regular day’s job, they make extra cash working at night.

“Having the New Afrika Shrine here means most of us would want to take advantage of the booming late-night activities there to do overtime which, in the long run, might not be unhealthy for us. To make extra cash, we may consider taking the risk,” he said.

Speaking on the social vices that might be attracted as a result of the Fela brand of uncontrolled access to and smoking of marijuana, Apostle was undisturbed, noting that it was a matter of choice and motorists would, in most cases, not smoke that while driving. “I don’t believe law and order will be broken through activities at the shrine as there are lots of security agents around the place. Just behind the building, we have the RSS, and a few blocks away, there is the police station at Abbatoir. I believe the level of security here would encourage more people to visit the place.”

The sight of the building alone has caused excitement for many residents as the idea of the legend and his embodiment in the rather humdrum area could forever change the face of neighbourhood.

Akeem Apampa, who lives in one of the estates at Oko-Oba, could not hide his enthusiasm about the prospects of having another Afrika Shrine under his nose. Having noticed the building as well, he said he had been curious about what it is all about.

According to Akeem, he heard from an unconfirmed source that the place might be Fela Shrine or museum. “Either way, I am excited that a representation of Fela Anikulapo will be just within my reach. I am an ardent follower of Fela; I love his music. I used to be a frequent caller at the Afrika Shrine in Ikeja, especially on the days Femi Kuti performs. But of late, I have not had the time to attend the shows as often as I would have loved to,” he said.

However, some were sceptical about the move, having thought of the social vices this might bring to Agege touts.

Mrs Akinade was somewhat pensive about the idea of yet another shrine close to Agege. “You know, Agege is a rugged place; the Agege boys need little or no reason to spark. With the kind of lawlessness associated with the shrine, this (the shrine) is going to be a catalyst. I just hope that the law enforcement agents will be on top of their game to maintain peace and order around the place,” she said.

Folake, a resident of the estate behind the building, was however, neutral about the prospects of having another shrine around her. “Our estate is well secure, so having Fela Shrine here poses no security threat. However, having a lot of strange faces around here smoking hemp and what have you does not look appealing at all,” she said.

For the owner of the bar along the close where the building is sited, if indeed it’s another shrine, this might mean more business to her. According to the woman called Mama by her customers, when the place eventually opens, either a club house, event centre or shrine, she expects that the level of patronage in her bar should increase as many may not be able to afford the prices of alcohol in the building and would prefer to step out to get same beer at an affordable price.

 

Femi’s manager speaks

When contacted, Mr Aisosa, Femi’s manager, promised to verify the claims from Fela’s children, considering the rumour that the building could actually be Seun’s. When he got back, he said he couldn’t get any of the family members to speak on the building, saying, “I am not aware of any plans to relocate the Afrika Shrine but I will try to confirm but if anything comes out, we can treat it as mere speculation.”

Mr Kayode Sutton of the Land Bureau refused to get back to Saturday Tribune as promised on the status of the building and whom the land was approved for.