A walk through centuries-old Ogiamien magical palace

In this report, HENDRIX OLIOMOGBE navigates the ancient palace of the Ogiamen dynasty in Edo, highlighting the rich history locked in the palace.

In the beginning, it was the Ogiso (king of the sky in Benin) who held the reins of power in Igodomigodo as Benin was then referred to. They needed a seat of government from where they could administer the vast land. Built in the 12th century AD, several Ogiso ruled the land from Ogiamien’s palace until the end of the Ogiso dynasty and the ascension of Oba Eweka 1 in 1170.

In the pantheon of the legendary kings of the sky, 32 Ogisos ruled Benin starting with Ogiso Igodo who ruled from 900-925 and ended with Ogiso Erhebor in 1170. One of the few surviving structures of the British invasion of Benin in 1897, the historical Ogiamien palace, dates back over 1,000 years. While almost all the houses including the majestic Oba Palace were razed down and Oba Ovonramwen was deposed, against all odds, the centuries-old Ogiamien palace was spared the wrath of the invaders.

Even with the end of the Ogiso dynasty and the signing of the Ekiokpagha Treaty between Ogiso Erhebor and Oranminyan’s son, Oba Eweka 1 which ended the civil strife, the Ogiamiens and their palace still continue to play a significant role in the very interesting history and culture of Great Benin.

A descendant of Ogiamien, Chief Roland Ogiamien said that the palace is one of the few places the Oba of Benin visits which is usually at night through an impromptu door hollowed out of the wall, the gate of the spirit which must be rebuilt immediately after the departure of the night visitor.

It was in recognition of the robust role it played in the history of Benin Empire that the colonial government, in 1959, declared the palace a national monument. While the Ogiamiens were still allowed to live inside, the house was put under the care of officials of the National Commission for Museums and Monuments (NCMM).

Situated on Sakponba Road, less than a kilometre from downtown Ring Road, the edifice was constructed with red soil. The masterpiece of Benin architecture, no doubt, represents the power and glory of Great Benin. Surrounded by modern buildings, the monument with its ancient walls, rusted brown zinc roofing sheets and ten courtyards in its bowels is enchanting.

Again with the numerous artifacts, some dating back to almost a millennium, a walk in the magical palace evokes the imagery of life in 12th century Benin. Acting as a tour guide, Chief Ogiamien said that there used to be almost 24 courtyards but added that due to non-maintenance and inactivity, they have been reduced to less than ten. According to him, the courtyard which is called Ikhunire in Benin was where the Oguedion was and was the place where the elders sat down with Ogiamien, the spiritual head of the family.

Pointing to the ancestral shrine, Chief Ogiamien explained that it’s where the family head worships every morning, noting that during the Ague festival which Christians call Lent, every Ogiamien is encouraged to fast and pray at the family altar three times a day just as their great ancestor, Ogiamien.

In another courtyard with lots of artifacts, the high chief explained that the place is for singing and dancing. He said that only recently the wall fell and there was a big hole, necessitating a lot of renovation work.

He continued: “We had to remove all the artifacts to Ohedian’s house but very soon we will bring them back after the renovation work is finished.”

Pointing to a stool, the elder Ogiamien noted that as it is customary for every Benin monarch during his initiation rites, it was presented by the immediate past Oba of Benin, Omo N’Oba Erediauwa.

He added: “If Ogiamien wants to do anything, he sits on that stool. Every Oba must present a stool when he’s about to be crowned. It’s part of the installation ceremonies of a new Oba. Some of the stools have been stolen and vandalised.” He continued: “There’s a room for treatment of sick people, a traditional hospital. If anybody was sick, they set fire and laid that person down in a mat, no matter the ailment, the person got better. There’s a native bank where Ogiamien kept his money. He covered it with a mat so that nobody would know that there’s treasure buried down there.

“There’s also the Olokun shrine and all the drums we use for the ceremony are kept there. There’s a store and a prison over there for detaining wicked people. Over there’s the sign of his ownership of the land. There’s the kitchen where the wife cooked and passed through a walkway to serve food to Ogiamien. This is the room where he kept all his beads and picked anyone to adorn anytime he was going out.”

Chief Ogiamien pointed out that only three persons pass through the mysterious ‘Gate of the Spirit’ which is broken and must be sealed up the morning after. The revered traditional ruler passes through the entrance during his coronation. The wall is broken for the Oba to pass through and is sealed the following morning after the ceremony.

“Again, it is opened during the burial ceremony of an elderly person. We have what is called eruan when somebody will be dressed up very spiritually. He is usually the oldest person in the family and is the only person that passes through during the burial rites. It must be covered up within 24 hours,” he said.

He explained the significance of Ogiamien in Benin history. “This was the palace of the Ogisos,  founders of Benin Kingdom. When the Ogisos ceased to reign, that was when the Obas came in. They were still existing side by side with the Obas. The father of Ogiamien was Ogiso. It was during his time that Benin was invaded but Ogiamien seeking peace agreed to coexist. Benin was divided. That’s where we are. Ogiamien Erebo was the one who signed the peace treaty,” he said.

He wailed that a quarter of a century ago, the head of the House of Ogiamien disappeared and has not been seen ever since and since nature abhors vacuum, the family had to install another Ogiamien, Ogiamien Arisco after a long wait.

While expressing hope that before the end of the year many good things would happen at the palace, he assured that the artifacts that were removed for safekeeping will be brought back.

Deputy Director, Heritage, National Museum, Mr. Akponana Avwerukeruwe, said that when the house was declared as a national monument, the museum in its attempt to maintain its extant laws, sent security, maintenance and heritage officers to the place to take care of the property.

He added: “It was supposed to be a joint management strategy whereby the Ogiamien family members and the museum manage it together since they live there.”

He explained that the genesis of the problem dated back to 1998 when the Ogiamien, Chief Osarobo Ogiamien left and has not been seen since he handed over the control of the building to his younger sister. The curator continued, saying that the lady rented the place out to wood sellers, saw millers, carpenters, artisans and all sorts of businesses which thrived inside the building against the position of the law which says that no structure should be erected within 50 feet of the monument.

“We told the sister that what she was doing was defacement but she drove the museum away and took us to court. We didn’t know who to talk to. In an attempt by the museum to invoke the law, they took us to court claiming that the Federal Government didn’t pay any compensation to them and so should not interfere in the management of their property. The problem as I told you is that the Ogiamien left since 1998 and has not returned. Nobody has heard from him too ever since. In 2015, the family however installed another Ogiamien, His Imperial Majesty, Ogiamien Arisco,” he said.

He assured that once the case was withdrawn from the court, the museum would deploy its experts so that they can step in and restore the palace.

Vowing solemnly that the House of Ogiamien will not fall, a prominent member of the family, Prince Michelin Ogiamien, however assured that the resolution of the court case is in sight as the Ogiamiens have since resolved to withdraw the case from court..

He said: “We have held series of meetings to resolve all the issues that tore us apart. As you can see we are presently renovating the palace on our own. We are withdrawing the case from court. We are back together as one big happy ancient family. Ogiamien is one.”