In this piece, FAVOUR BOLUWADE looks at the growing practice and health implications of skin bleaching which is the lightening of dark areas of the skin to achieve an overall lighter complexion. The practice — which includes the application of soaps, bleaching creams, pills and in some extreme cases chemical peels — has continued to generate concerns from medical experts on the implications of such practice.
A long time before the present, it wasn’t very common to see dark people suddenly turn whitish. However, over the years, the skincare business has become lucrative, with the industry taking advantage of the seeming craze for lighter skin. From gels to creams, injections, body wash, lotion and even surgeries, there are now many alternatives for people interested in changing skin tone.
Varying reasons have been given for why individuals prefer whiter skin. However, there is no taking away the seeming references to the colonial experiences of African countries. Besides, bleaching isn’t restricted to gender, as both men and women have been found to dabble into skin whitening practices. Nowadays, it’s the norm to walk into cosmetic and skincare shops and find creams with ‘lightening’ or ‘whitening’ tags in bold letters on their packs.
Statistics compiled by the World Health Organisation (WHO) in 2011 showed that 40 per cent of African women bleach their skin. In some countries, the figure is higher for persons who use skin lightening products: 77 per cent of women in Nigeria; 59 percent in Togo; 35 per cent in South Africa; 27 per cent in Senegal, and 25 per cent in Mali.
However, in the quest for light skin comes a list of dangerous consequences. Though these skin lightening products differ in prices, types and immediate side effects, some are so hazardous considering that they are recommended by uncertified individuals who parade products with unlisted ingredients and sell them to those who can’t afford the expensive creams. In some cases, these ‘mixed’ products are sold at very expensive rates under the guise that they are specially prepared with ‘secret, organic’ ingredients. However, in many cases, the end result can be quite disappointing. Reddish faces, yellow-greenish arms, traces of dark around the knuckles, purplish streaks on various exposed parts… many are the sights to behold when it comes to badly-bleached skin.
Idris ‘Bobrisky’ Okuneye, a cross-dresser, and Toke Makinwa, on-air personality, are popular for their skin transformation. In a documentary titled ‘Skin’ by Beverly Naya, Nigerian actress, Bobrisky had said he took bleaching as an option because that was what got people’s attention, compared to darker-skinned people.
‘Why we prefer bleached skin’
A resident of Ibadan who simply gave her name as Funmi said she bleached just to have an even skin tone, but confessed that it’s hard to maintain if one cannot get expensive products.
She said: “I was not planning to bleach, but my skin was not evenly toned. At first, I started with the popular brands in the market. However, my skin started reacting and I had to move to using organic products that were mixed with other constituents, so that the discolouration I have would not be too obvious. It is hard to maintain a fair skin.”
‘Applying makeup on bleached skin can be challenging’
Sanmi Adeoye, makeup artist popularly known as Feyisoge, said when people use expensive products, they look flawless while those who cannot afford costlier products have discolouration, adding that applying makeup to bleached skin can be challenging.
Adeoye said: “Applying makeup on a bleached skin causes increased sensitivity. Makeup works for everybody, but it is advised to clean off the makeup immediately with soap and water to avoid breakout. Bleaching badly can pose a problem when matching foundation for the person. Generally, there are really no harmful constituents in makeup, but there would be effects on a sensitive bleached skin. Lead in lipstick must be absolutely avoided.”
Effects of bleaching
According to studies, bleaching causes skin cancer. Skin-bleaching products contain toxic chemical ingredients such as mercury, glutathione – usually taken as injections or pills, hydroquinone and some steroids as the main active ingredient or combined. Nowadays, some skin-lightening industries make use of hydroquinone, a chemical that prevents the skin from forming the substance responsible for skin colour–melanin.
In the long run, skin bleaching products have been observed to start work against the skin, by damaging tissues and making skin darker. A few persons who narrated their experiences said it becomes more expensive to repair the damage to the skin, and the possible more serious health conditions like mercury poisoning.
Mrs. Akinlabi, a nurse and Dr Innih Kadiri, Consultant at the Burns and Plastic Surgery Unit, Ekiti State University Teaching Hospital, addressed some issues relating to the effects of skin bleaching. Akinlabi said the government can help the situation by taking decisive action to ban products with toxic ingredients.
She said: “Government can help by creating awareness and telling the public the effects of these chemicals, like some of the chemicals that cause cancer yet most people using it don’t really know. If they know the effects it will have on them, they will resist from using it.”
Nurse Akinlabi also suggested alternatives that could be used instead of cosmetics to avoid sunburn, which is one of the many reasons some users of bleaching products give for using the products. To avoid discolouration and sunburn, which is due to the harsh weather conditions in Nigeria, she advised that organics products like shea butter and other such natural ingredients should be used.
“All these our shea butter, natural products are better alternatives. Government should ban those products which have strong chemicals. Natural products should be packaged better and more attractive so that when consumers see them, they will go for them,” she said.
She further explained the difference between toning creams and organic formulated creams. According to her, the former had chemicals like hydroquinone, while the latter have not. She noted that organic creams,when bought from trusted sources, are natural products and it does not affect the skin.
“A consistent use of bleaching products kills the collagen and does not allow prompt wound healing. When you have collagen, your skin looks brighter, pliable and attractive,” Nurse Akinlabi stated.
‘Organic products are the best options for damaged skin’
Monisola Ojamo of Triple O Organic Beauty Care said there are several people who request different kinds of skincare creams and soaps for repairing their damaged skin after using so many chemicals and bleaching products.
Ojamo said: “Organic soap is a natural material we use for many. But if you want to truly use environmental-friendly soap, then organic is the way to go. African black soap helps in smoothening irritated skin and has antibacterial properties.
“These components are rich in alkaloids and other bioactive compounds that can fight bacterial infections. It cleanses and exfoliates the skin thoroughly and there are some products for those who have bleached in recent times to remove blemishes on the skin and repair bleached or damage skin cells. Promenade is often mixed with organic products some times for people who request to bleach.”
‘Chemicals in bleaching products affect the kidney’
The consistent use of unnatural products and bleaching can affect the kidney, according to Clifford Enobum, a medical officer in Oyo state.
“They add mercury to the products and that affects the kidney and other organs. But provided that the natural products are not mixed such as shea butter, then it’s safe. The thing about bleaching is one is removing the outer layer of the skin. That pigment layer is filled with a lot of melanin to protect us from the ample light of the sun. We are safer from skin cancer because of this.
“What happens is that the kidney is the organ that filters the blood and all of the things we put on our skin moves into the blood stream. Natural is good. Most of the creams are only safe if some ingredients are not used in the production. Most people don’t obey the instructions that follow, hence posing threat to the skin of those who use it. They add camphor, steroids and hydroquinone,” Enobum said.
‘Why some bleaching packages cost as low as N1,500 and others as much as N200,000’
CEO, Triple O Care, Ojamo, also said there are different products for various purposes and prices where sometimes the price may not determine the effectiveness of products bought. “Some people buy products that are expensive and will not work for their body. It depends on your sensitivity. For those who cannot afford the costly creams coming in various forms such as ‘dark knuckles cleanser’, ‘glowing skin care cream’, ‘lightening creams’, one can get as low as N1, 500,” she said.
With the increase in demand for ‘glow’ products as some would call it in their advertisement on social media pages, cost of the products also varies. Some go as far as N200, 000 and even higher if it is really a branded product.
According to a research, in 2017, the gobal skin-lightening industry was worth $4.8bn (£3.4bn), and it is projected to grow to $8.9bn by 2027, fuelled by a growing middle class in the Asia-Pacific region. A World Health Organization study found that 40% of Chinese women regularly use skin-lightening creams while it›s 61% in India and 77% in Nigeria.
Injury that should heal in months can take four years as a result of bleaching—Medical consultant
Dr. Kadiri from Ekiti State University Teaching Hospital discouraged bleaching. He spoke extensively on the fact that most people who bleach do not have fast healing processes. Asked about the time difference in healing of an individual who bleaches or doesn’t, Kadiri said wounds or internal injuries that should heal in months could take as much as four years to heal if the collagen is weak as a result of constant use of chemicals on the skin.
“Many people bleach and do not know the side effects. We blacks have melanin that is there to protect us, but constantly killing the melanin through bleaching products exposes the skin.
“As a protective layer, extrinsic factors have effects on the epidermis because what one applies on their skin will be absorbed as the skin has pores on it, such that whatever is being absorbed goes straight to the bloodstream and then into the organs in the body. Also, what one takes in(as food) affects the skin. It is both the extrinsic and intrinsic factors that affect the skin,” he explained.
With the campaign on social media encouraging people to celebrate and appreciate their natural beauty, as well as those revealing the dangerous short-term and long-term effects of bleaching, hopefully, people will weigh the consequences and see themselves as attractive just the way they are.
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